Ireland Blog
The Blarney Stone - the end
June 12, 2017
Today we traveled from Killarney to Limerick and went by way of Blarney. We weren't too sure how we would fill several hours at Blarney as we climbed off the bus, but in the end we were hurrying to the bus because we had more than used the time and we could have spent more time there. First we we're blessed with a dry day and the castle grounds had some of the most prolific gardens one could hope to see. There was a rock close with twisting paths that had surprises around every corner. The Victorian English garden was packed with so many colors, shapes and aromas that it was difficult to take it all in. Fern garden. Fairest. Arboretum. Oh, and a manor house to tour. There was a village but we ran out of time.
Climbing the ancient castle to wait in line to kiss the Blarney Stone was a must. We were in Blarney castle after all. Even if it did require one to lay down, hang onto two pipes for dear life while doing a backbend so that you could reach the stone while partially hanging upside down. Oh, and the guy holding your feet so that you don't slide down too far was at least 75 years old. At least 4 safety violations were zipping through my head, but that didn't stop me from doing it. The castle is a partial ruins with very good signage so it was an interesting tour.
After Blarney we stopped in Adare for a bit and enjoyed this quaint village. This town had all the usual buildings but there were a large number of thatched roof buildings, too. Dean found a heritage center, so it was one more place for him to learn more about his ancestors. He now has the family crest.
We arrived in Limerick and are spending our last evening in Ireland here. For dinner we all went to Knappogue Mideaval Castle for a mideaval dinner and a show. The food was good, the wine was flowing and the entertainment was fun. This was a nice way to end the tour.
Killarney - Dingle Peninsula Road
June 11, 2017
Today we visited the Dingle Peninsula. As with yesterday’s trip we saw lots of green rolling hills, water and villages. The mountains were on the opposite side of the bay so we did not ride high ridges today, but we did have wind. Lots of wind.
When we got to the tip of the peninsula, we came to the westernmost point of the European continent, the Blasket Islands. The Blasket Centre is a museum dedicated to explaining the Blasket Island culture, writing, art, and the end of the community. This community formed in the 1600’s when all Catholics were pushed into western Ireland. Some of the people moved to the island for farming space and freedom from the British forces. After WWI the population started to leave the island to look for an easier way of life and the last remaining people were removed from the island in the 1950’s. They kept the Gaelic Irish language strong throughout their stay on Blasket Island and wrote books talking about the island life in Gaelic. This group of humans reminded me of the Inuits in Canada that we saw last year. These people happily live subsistence lives but the young are connected with the rest of the world via the internet and are slowly leaving their home and culture to find a new and easier life elsewhere. I fear that their culture will be lost in 50 years as The Blasket Island culture died.
We road this jaunting cart through the Killarney National Park. It was a quiet ride through woods and gardens, along a river and a large lake dotted with islands. There are also herds of red deer, a restored castle and a manor house on this property. This national park is a great place to slow down and relax.
Killarney - Ring of Kerry
June 10, 2017
Today we took a tour of the Atlantic Coast around the County Kerry's central peninsula called Iveragh. We were in the mountains or rolling hills all day on a long,winding and sometimes narrow road. Sometimes we were in the valleys but more often we were on a mountain ridge witnessing an awesome view. I'm glad someone else was driving! We passed through many colorful villages and stopped at a couple. The homes are painted many vibrant hues, not just the white or stone cottages that many of us on the tour expected to see. Dingle Bay and ocean are clear with beautiful blues and turquoise colors. When the sun shines, and it seems to shine some part of most days (It also rains some parts of most days and it can cycle on and off quickly.), the colors are vibrant.
This is also a very windy coast. I'm not talking about a little wind but a sustained strong wind. It has been in the 50's and 60's and the wind can make it seem even colder. This is why everyone in the picture has multiple layers on.
We traveled through Killarney national park last quarter of trip. Beautiful forests punctuated with occasional lakes. Herds of deer. Next week 10,000 cyclists will be doing this route and we wish them well.
On the road to Killarney
June 10, 2017
Our first stop was the Rathbone farm owned by Mr. Fintan. At this sheep farm we saw a ewe being sheared and she didn't seem to mind the awkward position at all. The border collie showed off his love of herding sheep. Finally, we fed two very hungry lambs. The farmer told us that there is little money in Irish wool today so the sheep and lambs are raised for meat. They shear them but economically count on meat production. One of the highlights of our visit was a snack of the scones with rhubarb jam and clotted cream and a cup of tea or coffee. The scones were delicious and it was one of the rare cups of tea that wasn’t bitter. The Irish not only make their tea strong but seem to like it bitter, too. Given the chance I'd have shown up here for daily tea!
We had dinner at Kate Kearney's in Killarney. Say that fast three times! This wonderful group played Irish music on a vAriety of instruments and two girls danced traditional Irish dances to a few of their tunes. Folks in the pub even got up and danced their own versions of the jig.
Connemara region
June 8, 2017
Our first stop this morning was in Connemara and to see thei famous marble. As one would expect, most of it is a shade of green. Light chartreuse to dark jade, pick your shade.
Kylemore Abbey is a castle that a wealthy man, Mitchell Henry, built as a surprise for his wife. When she died at 45 he was so heart stricken that he built a lovely Neo-Gothic church as a memorial to her. Benedictine nuns from Flanders turned the castle and church into an abbey in 1920 and still have it today. The castle and church are decorated not only with carved wood but carved marble from the area. The grounds include lakes and streams, pathes through forests, a large Victorian garden to enjoy.
Our last stop before returning to town was a boat ride down the Killary fiord. Waterfalls flowed from the hills thanks to the abundant rain. Muscles and various fish are farmed in the fiord. Fresh muscles were enjoyed by many during the cruise.
Derry to Galway
June 7, 2017
This morning we woke to clear blue skies over Derry. It was a very pleasant surprise. As we loaded the bus to travel from the midpoint of the northern shore to the midpoint of the western shore in Ireland everyone was searching for sunglasses.
We stopped in Donegal to explore the village and visit the Irish House, a family run tweed business. The wool is still dyed with natural dyes as it has been done for 5 generations. The tweed is made on hand looms. They have been modernized a bit over the years but still produce beautiful tweed. Irish coffee was passed out while on tour which probably helps a bit with their sales. I look forward to enjoying my tweed cape at home!
Northern Ireland Coast
June 6, 2017
We left Belfast this morning and have spent the day on Ireland's windy, cold northern shore. Our bus took us on a drive that had breathtaking rolling hills and farmland on one side and the ocean on another. After a couple of stops in a small fishing village and a place that had view of islands that had a rope bridge for the very daring between on island and the mainland, we arrived at the Giant's Causeway. If you ever come to Northern Ireland, do not miss this area that has been placed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site for a good reason. The natural basalt columns made by volcanic activity are interesting and beautiful. The trails allow one to walk to and around the formations and to hike far above to get a birds eye view. We spent two hours hiking and could have spent more.
Our finals stop today is Londonderry/Derry. What it is called depends on if you are a loyalist or republican. We heard much about the events that happened in this town over thirty years of strife and what they have been doing to bring peace to the people in this region. The smaller towns don't seem to have quite the animosity and lack of trust that the cities have, but this one is working to make sure that the next generations get to know others with different points of view personally so that they realize you can disagree and be friends.
Belfast - Day 2
June 5, 2017
Today was a day of touring and learning more about Irish history. Our first stop was the Titanic museum. It was a celebration of how large ships were made, what it was like to work at a ship yard and what Belfast was like during the turn of the century and early 1900's. It was also a discussion of the Titanic design, sinking and underwater discoveries.
Belfast - Day 1
June 4, 2017
We headed to Belfast this morning toward our second city on the tour. The original plan was to stop at a castle along the way but a bicycle race across Northern Ireland caused the driver to come up with plan B and C and D. We did see some beautiful country along the way. Many shades of green, rolling hills dotted with fields surrounded by tall hedges and occasionally a farm or small village. It rained off and on all day. The rain would start suddenly and stop just as suddenly. Rain gear is definitely a necessity in this part of the world.
Dublin
June 4, 2017
We have spent the last 2 1/2 days enjoying this beautiful city and its gracious inhabitants. Dublin is an old city of non straight roads, many shops and pubs and a few large parks. We have walked. A lot. Our tour has taken us to Trinity College and the library to see the 9th century Book of Kells, the four gospels written in Gaelic and famous for its precious illuminations. Trinity is a beautiful college and the library is breathtaking for anyone who loves books. We have walked through miles of Georgian archectecture stopping along the way to see a historic building, shop restaurant or pub.
We toured the Guinness facility and the Jameson Whiskey facility. We did stop for lunch in between since taste testing was part of the experience. Every pub seems to have a stew, seafood chowder or soup and we have enjoyed these at lunch with our beverage of choice.
Four couples that we are touring with were with us on our Australia/New Zealand tour and it has been great catching up with them. Dean's sister and brother in law are also with us and we have had fun not only delving into family history earlier in our trip but also traveling with them on the tour. We are having fun starting to get to know the other folks on the tour, too.
Ancestry search done - now onto the tour
June 1, 2017
The final wounderfull B&B breakfast. Yep, three mornings of a multicourse breakfasts and wonderful conversation. Edith has a real gift for hospitality and it was a joy to spend a few days in her B&B.
Following the final search we had lunch in Market Hill and spent time in the Orange museum in Loughgall learning a bit about the conditions that existed when James Crozier left Ireland and some possible reasons for leaving. As with most countries, this green corner of the world has a complicated past. By dinner time we are back in Dublin and Dean turned over the rental car keys and is happy to say that the car was returned with mirrors and bumpers intact. Those close calls with wide trucks and tractors on narrow lanes lined with tall hedges and walls are now distant memories.
The search for Crozier
May 31, 2017
We visited 5 cemeteries in three towns today looking for the lost link in the Crozier genealogy. We found one George Crozier who lived in the right area and time so Dean will be searching through new found web sites to see if this is his great great great grandfather. Yesterday the genealogy librarian gave great advice on other places to search. So the search goes on.
Armagh, Northern Ireland
May 31, 2017
Edith, the proprietor for Reuanne House, has been so gracious and served us a huge Irish breakfast while telling us about the area and making suggestions to help in the genealogy search and places that she thought we would enjoy. The B&B is an old Presbyterian manse and sits in lush rolling hills near Armagh in Northern Ireland. No bowl of cereal here for breakfast. That was part of the first course. Then we had the Irish fry up that include three kinds of bread, two were fried, eggs, three kinds of meat and lots of caffeinated beverages. No need for lunch.
We are in Armagh to learn more about the place that Dean's great, great grandfather left to come to Ohio and to try and find out more about his family. We headed to Thomas O'Flaich library to do some genealogy searching for James Crozier and his father. Bernard was extremely helpful, found some information and led Dean to new sources to continue the search. Records from 1800 are rather hard to come by but he found a couple of leads.
We spent the rest of the day touring the city of cathedrals, including not one but two St. Patrick's catedrals. One Catholic and one Protestant.
Armagh is a quaint old town full of history with beautiful architecture, many coffeehouses, restaurants and pubs, and very winding roads. No simple intersections for this town. We enjoyed an open air farmers market, walked to many churches and other historical sites enjoying the architecture along the way, and took breaks by stopping at a few of the aforementioned establishments. Although we sampled different local beers, the jury is still out on which was the best and we will need to do some more testing tomorrow.
The travel begins
May 30, 2017
So, off we go from Columbus to JFK to Dublin for the Ireland adventure. Part ancestry trip but mostly just because it looks like a nice place to visit. Oops, airline issues (weather, maintenance, whatever) but Delta will take care of us. Our plane lands in Detroit. Wait, that is the wrong direction. Oh well, always wanted to fly to Detroit for supper. PF Chang, lettuce wraps, wantons, beer. Not exactly what I had in mind for Ireland but . . . OK, Delta still taking care of us. On plane, heading east (correct direction this time) and over the pond. 7 hours later, wait Dublin is down there, going too far. Oh well, always wanted to visit Amsterdam. . . . OK, Delta is still taking care of us with flight from Amsterdam to Dublin.
Finally, the wandering stops and we are in Ireland. I guess not unlike the ancestors from 1800's only in reverse. We wandered around God's green earth trying to get from North America to Ireland due to weather, mechanical issues, staffing, whatever. The ancestors we are tracking did the same thing in reverse. They wandered around God's green earth trying to get from Ireland to North America and I am sure they had the same issues. Weather, mechanical issues, staffing, whatever all caused issues. Same end result just different technologies. We all got to where we wanted to start adventurers.
Our B&B and car rental are all very understanding and helpful. But, wait, everyone is driving on the wrong side of the road! Ah, this will be an adventure.